1913’te Kudüs

14 Ağustos 2017 Fırat Yeni Asır 90

Kudüs 1917’ye kadar Osmanlı hakimiyetinde idi, bizim topraklarımızdı. 2 yazarımızdan, Hüseyin Vassaf ve Falih Rıfkı Atay’dan 1913 ve 1915 Kudüs’üne dair izlenimler aktaracağım. Hüseyin Vassaf (1872-1929) eski kültürümüzle yetişmiş Arapça, Farsça ve Fransızca bilen, şair ve yazar bir mutasavvıftır. Osmanlı’nın son dönemi kültür hayatına dair değerli eserleri vardır. Bunlardan biri Hicaz Hatırası adını taşır (Kubbealtı neşriyatı). Bu kitabın sonunda Suriye ve Filistin’e yaptığı seyahatin notları yer alır.
Hüseyin Vassaf Kudüs’te 1913 Kasım ayında bulunmuş.
O günlere ait izlenimlerinden bir özet sunuyorum. Yazarımız ilk olarak Mescid-i Aksa’yı ziyaret eder. Buranın önemini şöyle anlatır: Miraç gecesinde Hz. Peygamber Kudüs’te ayak bastığı yerler. Göğe yükselirken ayağını koyduğu sert kaya üzerinde izler vardır. Hz. Ömer bunun üzerine mevcut binayı yaptırdı. Mescid-i Aksa gayet süslüdür. II. Mahmut ve Sultan Aziz’in gönderdiği avizeler dikkati çeker. Etrafı mezarlıktır.
Hz. Davud zamanından kalma çok eski zeytin ağaçları gördüm.
Rabia-i Adeviye’nin, Selman-ı Farisi’nin ve daha pek çok zatın türbeleri mevcuttur.

***

Kudüs’ün muntazam gazinoları, dükkanları var. Karpuz, portakal bol. Her şeyin en nefisini burada bulmak mümkün.
Hristiyanlarca pek meşhur Kamame kilisesini gezdim.
Kilise çok eskidir, tavanları Ayasofya gibi süslüdür. Pırlanta, altın, inci süslemeler bol miktarda kullanılmıştır. Hz.
Meryem’in pırlantalarla bezeli resimleri dikkati çeker. Bu kilisede her mezhebin yeri demir parmaklıklarla çevrilidir, herkes kendi bölümünde ibadet eder.
Pazarları ve Paskalya zamanında, askerlerimizin özel kontrolü olmasa arbede çıkar.

***

Hz. Meryem’in kabrinin bulunduğu yere gittim. Bir papaz karşıladı beni, gezdirdi. 30-40 basamaklı bir merdivenden aşağı indik. Tavan ve basamakların kenarları çok süslüydü.
Hz. Meryem’i severim. Ruhuna Fatihalar okudum. Sabahleyin Alman imparatorunun yaptırdığı kiliseyi görmeye gittik.
Çok büyük bir dağın tepesinde.
Ayinlerini seyrettik. Güzel şeyler okudular. Uzaktan Tur Dağı görünüyor. Burası Hz. Musa’ya ilahi tecellinin vuku bulduğu yer.

***

Hüseyin Vassaf başka dinlere karşı saygılı bir kimsedir. Kilise ziyaretleri sırasındaki tavrından bu durum anlaşılıyor. Burada dikkatimi çeken nokta şu: Kendisi gezisi sırasında Yahudilerden hiç söz etmiyor. Birkaç günlük kısa bir seyahat süresinde ilgisini çekmemiş olabilir. Ayrıca geçen yazımda da belirttiğim gibi 1913’lerde Kudüs yönetiminde Yahudi etkisi henüz yoktur.
İsrail Devleti 1948’de kuruldu.
Kudüs’teki Yahudi baskısı ve zulmü de daha sonraki yıllarda kendini gösterdi. Cuma günkü yazımda Falih Rıfkı’nın 1915-1917 izlenimlerinde, Yahudi ve Siyonist faaliyetleri açıkça görülecektir.

“1913’te Kudüs” için 90 yanıt

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